Weingut Fritz HAAG (Mosel Valley) -- 2022 Tasted from Bottle

Several decades ago, when I was beginning to learn about German wine, I kept ranking an estate I didn’t know first in blind tastings: Fritz Haag. I quickly came to appreciate that under the late Wilhelm Haag, this was one of the great estates of the Mosel Valley, producing incisive wines of great penetration, purity, and energy. Wilhelm’s son Oliver has continued the estate’s prominence among the top producers, and keeping with the changing times and climate, has expanded its range to produce fine dry wines.

Because of the dryness of the 2022 vintage, younger vines suffered some from lack of hydration, but older vines had the necessary access to water. This is a lineup of quality, including a great Kabinett, outstanding Spätlesen, and great late harvest wines, one of the bigger challenges of the vintage as there was little botrytis.

2022 Riesling Trocken

The acidity is quite hard here right now, making this wine difficult to approach. By the third day after opening, it begins to show good slate Riesling fruit with less hardness to the acidity. As an entry-level dry wine, it is a good effort. Screw cap closure. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0223. 87/B-

2022 Brauneberg  Riesling J  Trocken   Erste Lage

The “J” indicates that the wine is from the Juffer and Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyards. This wine is quite tight but has minerality and incipient peach fruit. I’d give it 3-5 years in the cellar before consuming. Screw cap closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 17 23.  89/B

2022 (Brauneberg) Juffer  Riesling GG

Perfumed, floral nose. In the mouth, roses and peach, good energy, depth, penetration. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2423. 92(+)/A

2022 (Brauneberg) Juffer-Sonnenuhr  Riesling GG

This wine is very tightly-wound and needs several years of cellaring to open up. It presents classic Juffer-Sonnenuhr tension and minerality with great penetration and, at least for the moment, austerity. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0823. 91+/A-

2022 (Kesten) Paulinshofberg  Riesling GG

Fresh, spiced peach nose, good intensity. In the mouth, good firmness, penetration, peach fruit, and energy. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2723. 91+/A-

2022 Riesling

Technically, this wine is feinherb with too much residual sugar (17 g/l) to qualify as trocken, but with its acidity it tastes essentially dry, with the sugar acting only to round out the texture of the wine. It’s easy to drink, with slate-driven fruit, and can be served either on its own or with a wide variety of foods. Screw cap closure. 11.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0123. 89/A

2022 (Brauneberger) Juffer Riesling Kabinett

This outstanding Juffer Kabinett has lime/slate aromas and flavors in a light-weight body with a fine acidity that works well against the residual sugar that is barely perceptible. The wine has complexity and length to go with all this. With time, it opens to show deep apricot fruit. Screw cap closure. 8.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0323. 93/A+

2022 (Brauneberger) Juffer Riesling Spätlese

The 2022 Juffer Spätlese is a gorgeous expression of the terroir — slate notes in the nose and mouth and a sugar/acid play that gives the wine just the right balance. There is, of course, sweetness here, but not overly so for a Spätlese. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 23. 94/A

2022 (Brauneberger) Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

As good as the Juffer Spätlese is, the Juffer-Sonnenuhr goes beyond it. As is typical, this is the more energetic and nervy wine and also the richer and more powerful one. But at this point, it is also the less-developed of the two with much of the fruit at this point still lurking behind intense acidity. I’d drink the Juffer now and over the next several years and then begin the Juffer-Sonnenuhr. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0723. 94(+)/A

2022 (Brauneberger) Juffer Riesling Auslese

This wine has a floral/perfumed nose, sweetness and some minerality, but I don’t find the balance, concentration, and depth of a top year in this wine. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2023. 90/B-

2022 (Brauneberger) Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese

Much greater acidity and tension in this wine than in the Juffer Auslese. The wild, energetic aspect of Juffer-Sonnenuhr shows through, and the wine is light on the palate with a knife-sharp sugar/acid balance. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0623. 93/A-

2022 (Brauneberger) Juffer Riesling Auslese (Gold Capsule)

The Juffer Gold Cap Auselese has excellent acidity to balance the sweetness. Depth, tropical fruit, but this wine is so enjoyable now, I’d drink it young. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 2223. 95/A

2022 (Brauneberger) Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Gold Capsule)

This is a magnificent wine with sharp acidity balanced against the substantial sweetness. The typical distinction of the terroir between Juffer and Juffer-Sonnenuhr continues to hold even at this level of ripeness and residual sugar — the Juffer is richer and this wine is racier and nervier. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 0923. 97/A+