Perception, 53 Rue Blanche, Paris 9

I had a very good meal here about a year ago, but my latest lunch there took things up to another level.

The restaurant has been open since November 2021. Sukwon Yong, from Korea, is the chef here, blending aspects of Korean cuisine with French for ravishing results.

The restaurant is on the rue Blanche, about a three-minute walk from the Musée de la Vie Romantique (currently featuring a show on Géricault’s horse paintings, drawings, and prints).

We were there on a Friday at lunch, and since this was a holiday weekend, there weren’t many other diners. The space consists of three rooms with the kitchen in the back.

The carte at lunch:

We chose the menu in five services, which consisted (in slightly smaller portions, I believe) of both entrées, both plats, and one of the desserts.

Before we received our entrées, there were two amuses bouches:

This was chopped bonita, a jam of algae, and fish eggs. It was most interesting with plenty of umami, good depth, precision, and freshness.

The second was a bite-sized ball of pork with breading on the outside and a dollop of apple jelly. It resembled an excelled bite of pig’s foot.

The wine list is outstanding in both selection and pricing. We were told that the restaurant’s owner, Barnabé Lahaye, is passionate about wine and chose the wines for the list.

Given the dishes that we were going to have, I thought a white from the Northern Rhône would be appropriate — there is body to them, fruit, and from a good producer, freshness. We chose a Saint-Joseph white from Domaine Bernard Gripa, one of the very top Saint-Joseph producers. It is a wine from the Roussane and Marsanne grapes, and was indeed, fresh and aromatic with lovely apricot aromas and flavors.

After we selected the wine, we were told that the chef thinks that white Northern Rhônes make the best accompaniment to his cuisine.

The first entrée was raw and cooked shellfish with spiced strawberries, and pollack that had been matured and dried with a kimchi powder and then smoked.

It was a wonderful dish, with each bite revealing different textures and flavors, and with the spices giving a piquant touch. It also was a first (and not last) confirmation of our wine choice.

Next came the eggplant lacquered with Doenjang; peanut condiment, sauce, and cracker; and lemony fromage frais.

This beautifully-presented dish was subtle in its flavorings, contrasting with the prior dish, but no less delicious.

The first main was cuttlefish on a bed of red pepper and kimchi, potato, and fresh peas.

This dish continued the string of impressive dishes, providing contrasts and harmonies of flavor and texture.

The second main was veal on a purée of broccoli and wasabi, with green asparagus, glazed spinach, and black garlic (with some extras, like fava beans, thrown in, too).

It was a perfect spring dish with lightness elegance.

Finally, the dessert was a celebration of bees, centering around honey and pollen.

The dish was beautiful, light, and not overly sweet.

Mignardises presented in a lacquer box along with the check.

Perception is a tour-de-force with dishes that are as beautifully composed visually as they are gustatorily with many contrasting elements all combined into a symphonic whole. I enthusiastically recommend the restaurant.

Perception

53 rue Blanche, 75009 Paris

Telephone: 01 40 35 78 32

Tuesday-Friday lunch and dinner, Saturday dinner

Métro: Blanche, Place de Clichy, Saint-Georges