Global warming generally was helpful in the 1990s and early 2000s to many regions in France such as Burgundy, but by now the climate has often become too warm for consistent wines of the highest quality. However, that is not yet the case for Cabernet Franc-based wines from the Loire Valley. Moreover, the prices generally remain moderate, making many of these wines of interest for everyday drinking. And finally, there are many producers of quality in the region, more than I am showing here.
Famille AMIRAULT GROSBOIS
A cooperative negociant project from two of the finest producing families in the area. Certified organic.
2021 Bourgueil Les Caillottes
It is fresh, crunchy, spicy, medium-weight, and has red fruits. It is a delightful wine for what it is and at a moderate price. This wine is from several small parcels on gravelly soils in the Bourgueil appellation, harvested by hand, natural yeast. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. 88/B
2022 Bourgueil Les Caillottes
The 2022 is richer with floral aromas, spicy, crunchy red fruit flavors, medium weight, and a velvet texture. It is excellent for current drinking. Certified organic. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. 90/A-
2022 Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil Les Silices
Slightly spicy dark Cabernet Franc fruiit, medium-weight, some density of texture, smooth tannins. Good for drinking over the next 1-3+ years. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LAGSNAR22. 88/B
FOUET
2022 Saumur-Champigny
This is a classic Saumur-Champigny with spiced Cabernet Franc fruits, a medium-weight body, and some elegance. It drinks well already. Certified organic. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L 01. 89/B+
Domaine JOURDAN
This estate also has been known as Jourdan & Pichard. Philippe Pichard was the longtime vigneron here. Beginning in 2012, Annick et Francçois Jourdan took over the estate and worked with Pichard. Certified organic and biodynamic.
2022 Chinon Les Gravinières
This is delightful entry-level Chinon with pure, dark cherry Cabernet Franc fruit, lightness, silkiness, and freshness on the palate, and excellent balance, purity and precision. I’d drink it over the next 3-5 years. Vinc agglomerate cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A
Béatrice et Pascal LAMBERT
2021 Chinon Les Terrasses
From sandy gravel soils, this wine is light, refreshing, and delicious with a mixture of dark and red berry fruits. It should provide excellent drinking at an attractive price over the next several years. Certified biodynamic and organic. Agglomerate cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. 90/A-
Vignoble de RAB
2021 Chinon vieilles vignes de Cabernet Franc
This is a medium-light Chinon with great freshness to go with its dark fruits. It should be good with aperitifs and other light dishes over the next few years. Certified organic. Agglomerate cork closure. 12% stated alcohol. Lot 2021-5. 87/B
Olga RAFFAULT
2018 Chinon Les Picasses
Many producers in the region didn't get 2018 right and wound up with overly-alcoholic wines (i.e., 14.5-15+º). Not the case here. This is quite a beautiful wine with good density on the palate and depth, smooth texture, violets, and plenty of black cherry fruit with stoniness and precision. This is in its early drinking days and I can see it lasting two decades plus. Certified organic. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L011. 92/A
Domaine du RONCIÉ/Christophe BAUDRY & Jean-Martin DUTOUR
2023 Chinon vieilles vignes
While not at the standard of top Chinon, this wine is both attractive and modestly-priced. It features ripe, dense dark plum fruit with just a hint of spice, and it has good acidic support and freshness. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L 973. 87/B
Wilfrid ROUSSE
Certified organic.
2022 Chinon Grain de Folie/Les Galuches
Lot L.3 of Rousse’s Chinon sells as “Grain de Folie” and also as “Les Galuches” (at greatly different prices). The wine is medium-light in weight, silky in texture, and after an initial funk blows off (20-30 minutes), shows attractive, spicy Cabernet Franc fruit. It should be good for dinking over the next 3-5 years, maybe longer. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 22.03. 90/A-
2020 Chinon Les Puys
From clay-limestone soils on the plateau, this is a more tannic, concentrated wine than the Grain de Folie/Galuches above (and, of course, there is a vintage difference). Tannins here are quite significant and the wine shows more concentration to go with intense, deep, dark fruits. I’d give this wine a minimum of five years in the cellar. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L 2004. 90+/A-
Antoine SANZAY
2021 Saumur-Champigny La Paterne
From a less ripe year, this is a balanced, fresh, energetic wien with dark plums and crushed dark berry fruit. I’d drink it over then next 4-6 years. Certified organic. Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LPAT21. 88/B