Le Comptoir Boutary, 32 rue de Catherine de la Rochefoucauld, Paris 9
Maison Boutary started in 1888 as a wine-making operation. In the twentieth century, it expanded into supplying fine food supplies to chefs at restaurants and hotels and to fine food shops. Eventually, it moved into supplying caviar, which is now its sole business — except for four restaurants, one in Tokyo and three in Paris. Of the three in Paris, one in the 6th arrondissement is a gastronomic restaurant that I have yet to visit. In the 17th arrondissement, there is Le Petit Boutary, a cozy bistrot. The newest restaurant (already open some years) is Le Comptoir Boutary in the 9th arrondissement, just down the street from Hectar, which I wrote about several weeks ago and it also is close-by to Les Canailles - Pigalle, a very good traditional bistrot that is worthy of your attention.
The interior is bright and cheery with well-spaced tables. The night I was there, all other customers appeared to be French except for an Hispanic couple at the table next to mine.
The carte at dinner:
The wines are solid. The by-the-glass selections:
I started with a glass of white Côtes-du-Rhône as an apéritif and to go with my first course, which was the beets and shrimp (betterave et gambas):
The wine was forgettable, but the beets and shrimp was a nice combination of flavors and textures.
For my main course, I took the wild octopus (poulpe sauvage):
The octopus was first steamed and then fried. It was meaty and had a good texture with no rubberiness. The bok choy, green beans, and broccoli (and there was also some mushroom and radish) made an excellent accompaniment.
I had a very good glass of red Saumur-Champigny from Arnaud Lambert to go with the main course.
For dessert, I chose the bergamote et mûres (bergamot and blackberries):
Looking perhaps like . . . well, I don’t know what, this was pleasing although not particularly memorable. It was not overly sweet, which I appreciated.
The bill:
A little mignardise was presented with the bill:
Le Comptoir Boutary is an informal restaurant that is a good example of contemporary cuisine in Paris. I would not class it as a restaurant to make a special trip for, but should you be in this part of Paris, it is a very good choice.
Le Comptoir Boutary
32 rue de Catherine de la Rochefoucauld, 75009 Paris
Tuesday dinner, Wednesday-Saturday lunch and dinner
Tél: 01 53 16 44 56
Métro: Pigalle, Notre-Dame de Lorette, Trinité-d’Estienne d’Orves