For the first five years of its existence, Lazu was known as Bouillon 47, but the name changed last year to refer to its chef, Rémi Lazurowicz. Lazurowicz was a longtime second to Bruno Doucet, one of the founders of the bistronomie movement, and with this restaurant he continues with bistronomie.
The interior has an airy feeling, notwithstanding the dark blue walls that could in many circumstances make the room seem smaller.
The carte:
And specials on the chalk board:
The wine list is not extensive but has good selections at fair markups. The wines-by-the glass:
For an amuse-bouche, we had a biscuit with a roast garlic biscuit, cauliflower mousse, and salsify. It was very good set the stage for what was to come:
For wine, we ordered the 2022 Mâcon-La Roch Vineuse from Olivier Merlin, a producer I much admire.
The wine was round and showed plenty of fruit with some tropical notes. It was a little less crisp than I would have liked, but that is sometimes the case with 2022 in the Mâconnais.
As a first course, L took the lentil soup:
The herring cream was quite marked, but not enough to be distracting. On the whole, this was a most satisfying dish.
I began with the foie gras. It as very dense and of high quality. The various elements, such as Port, Cognac, and espelette, didn’t play much of a role, but I enjoyed the dish.
L took the vegetarian stuffed cabbage with pleurotte mushrooms, deep-fried garlic, Parmesan tiles, and caramelized shallot sauce for her main course:
This was a flavorsome dish that was more complex than your typical stuffed cabbage and that worked seamlessly.
I took the roast cod with braised endive with Comté cheese and watercress:
This was a first-rate dish with all the elements coming together yet retaining their own identity.
For dessert, we shared the omelette norvégienne (baked Alaska) with pineapple and passion fruit ice cream in the middle. This was delicious comfort food, just right for a cold and rainy evening, and despite the fact that the dish has been around forever, we haven’t had it in a very long time, so it seemed almost original.
The bill:
This was a very satisfying meal with updated French cuisine bourgeoise, and I thank my friend Frédéric for suggesting it to me. Lazu is definitely worthy of your consideration.
Lazu
47, rue Marguerite de Rochechouart, 75009 Paris
Tel: 09 51 18 66 59
Tuesday-Saturday, lunch and dinner
website: lazu.fr
Métro: Anvers, Cadet