La Pousse d'Or (Volnay) -- 2022 Tasted from Drawn-Off Samples Part II -- Côte de Nuits
As outstanding as the Côte de Beaune wines showed, the Côte de Nuits wines are at least a match.
Benoît Landanger has purchased several new vineyards through a holding company. The vineyards are worked by personnel employed by the Landanger family (instead of La Pousse d’Or) and then the grapes are sold to La Pousse d’Or, making those wines technically négociant wines. The vineyards involved are the Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière and Charmes-Chambertin. Echézeaux was bought but the sale had not closed at the time of the harvest, so the fruit was bought from the vineyard seller. There is no more Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Feusselottes at La Pousse d’Or, as that was traded for the Charmes-Chambertin.
2022 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Perrière
Delicious red currant fruit, sweetness from the fruit, fine tannins, excellent energy, some wildness and stoniness. (92-95)
2022 Chambolle-Musigny
Very fine texture, pure, red and dark fruits, floats above the tongue, fresh. Seven different village parcels plus a little 1er Cru Chabiots and Borniques in this wine. (92-94)
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Groseilles
Red fruits, finesse, purity, length, what most people have as an ideal of Chambolle-Musigny. Excellent length. A bit of juiciness here. (93-95)
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes
Ethereal, floats above tongue, red fruits, minerality, purity. Just a beautiful Charmes. (93-96)
2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Amoureuses
Pure, beautiful Amoureuses red cherry fruit, perfect balance, harmony, floating. (96-98)
2022 Bonnes-Mares
Animal Bonnes-Mares nose. Pure, elegant, fine, floating, dark fruits, a touch of licorice, depth, harmony. (96-98)
2022 Echézeaux
From the Poulailleres climat, considered one of the finest, if not the finest, in Echézeaux. Earthy Echézeaux red fruits, pure smooth, round, medium-weight, excellent length, old-vine density: vines planted in 1951. (95-97)
2022 Charmes-Chambertin
From the Mazoyeères climat. Earthy dark Mazoyères fruit nose. Dark fruits, more volume than previous wines, but still with lightness on palate. Penetrating, some of the wildness of Mazoyères. Excellent presentation of the terroir. 84% 16 year-old vines, 16% 65 year-old vines. (94-96)
2022 Clos de la Roche
Dark fruits, power with some elegance — the iron fist in the velvet glove. Perhaps not quite as much energy as in some versions, but plenty of pleasure here. Planted 1950-51. (94-96)