La Datcha, Paris 11 (redux)

I first dined at La Datcha on 2 September. Last night with L finally having arrived in Paris, I went back and had another excellent meal.

The carte has evolved some in the 2-1/2 ensuing weeks, reflecting the fact that we are still on the cusp between summer and fall, but now more into fall. Still, some of the dishes remain the same, albeit with subtle tweakings in some cases.

As before, the clientèle, other than us, seemed to be entirely French.

As an amuse-bouche, a tarte fine that looked the same as on my previous visit, except that it was of carrot, not butternut squash, with citrus.

I wanted the cèpes on the carte, and since they did not come with the tasting menu, we went with à la carte selections.

For wine, we ordered a well-priced Gevrey-Chambertin from the outstanding 2022 vintage and an underrated producer.

The wine was excellent, as I expected, with spicy Gevrey red fruits, but alas, it was served at room temperature and we had to ask for an ice bucket to cool it to proper temperature. (Both red and white Burgundy should be served at cellar temperature, that is 13-15º C/55-59ºF, a fact unknown to the great majority of Paris restaurants.)

As with my previous visit, following the amuse-bouche, we were provided with a trio of excellent butters to have with bread, while waiting for our first course.

For her first course, L took the ravioli of salmon with green and yellow zucchini in a Dijon mustard sauce.

The dish seemed to be identical to that which I’d had on the earlier visit and it pleased L.

My cèpes came with fennel, blackberry, and a host of other things.

It was excellent, deftly combining a host of different flavors, but to tell the truth, I would have been just as happy with the cèpes on their own.

For her main course, L took the bar (sea bass). She was very pleased with this, too.

I took the volaille du Gâtinais.

The white and dark meat were packed into a long box shape and accompanied by butternut squash in various forms. Both the poultry and the vegetables were excellent with precise, intense flavors.

For dessert, we shared the raspberry-themed dish that came with a semi-soft almond cookie/cake and raspberry ice cream. This was light, not too sweet, refreshing, and most satisfying. This essentially was the same dessert I had on the first visit.

The bottom line:

This visit confirmed that La Datcha is making excellent, creative seasonal food at most reasonable prices. It is most worthy of your attention.

La Datcha

62 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris

website: https://ladatchaparis.com/

Tél: 01 88 61 49 66

Monday dinner, Tuesday-Saturday lunch and dinner, Sunday lunch

Métro: République, Oberkampf, Parmentier, Couronnes, Goncourt