Eunoé (again), 6 rue Rochebrune, Paris 11

Last Saturday I had lunch with two friends while they laid over in Paris several hours, coming back from Spain and changing trains to London. We went to Eunoé, one of my favorite new restaurants in Paris, and conveniently easy for them to get to by Métro and then continue on to the Gare de Nord. I previously have written about Eunoé here.

The menus (they say that they are for the evening, but that’s what’s served on Saturday lunch, too.

And the current wine list:

After deciding what to order for food, we turned to wine and took a Savoie from Ludovic Archer (different from either cuvée shown on the wine list).

It was minerally and enjoyable, but less rounded and expansive than some of my favorite Chignin Bergerons. Still, it did the trick throughout the meal.

One friend started with the variation on the standard beets with chèvre first course:

It looked delicious and apparently was.

My other friend and I each took the trout marinated in red shiso with broccoli and broccoli foam.

This was very good, with the trout contrasting with the delicacy of the broccoli and the foam. The wine also paired well with this dish.

The first friend then followed up with the squash and eggplant dish.

My other friend took the Challans duck.

It seems it was every bit as good as I have found it before.

I took the mushroom medley with puff pastry and vin jaune. It was satisfying, although without the depth of flavor that one gets later in the fall.

For dessert, one of us took the “rare” cheesecake with grapefruit, limoncello, and lemon meringue, which apparently was delicious except that the the crackers were too strong in their tea flavors.

The other two of us took the figs poached with verbena, mascapone whipped cream, and black tea crumble. The black tea crumble was a bit dry, but the rest of the dish worked marvellously.

The bill:

Eunoé remains a location of creative cooking at moderate prices and in a pleasant location.

Eunoé

6, rue Rochebrune, 75011 Paris

Tél: 07 67 96 86 36

https://www.eunoe-restaurant.com/

Tuesday-Saturday lunch and dinner, Sunday lunch; closed Sunday dinner and Monday

Métro: Saint-Ambroise, Rue Saint-Maur, Richard Lenoir