Domdechant Werner (Rheingau) 2022 and 2021 Rieslings and a Rosé Tasted from Bottle and from Tank Samples
Although the town of Hochheim gives its name to the English word for wines from the Rheingau (“Hock”), its vineyards are not actually on the Rhine River, but rather the Main River, downstream from Frankfurt and just before the Main’s confluence with the Rhine at Mainz. Nevertheless, it is the location of several splendid Rheingau vineyards and producer. One of the producers is Domdechant Werner, which has excellent holdings in three of the great Hochheim vineyards: Domdechaney, Kirchenstück, and Hölle.
2022 Guts-Riesling trocken
This is entry dry Riesling, good for what it is. At 7 g/l residual sugar and 7.2 g/l acidity, one expects this wine to taste drier than the Riesling Classic below, but that’s not the case, and I pick up a bit of sweetness on the finish. All I can figure is that there is a greater proportion of malic acidity in the Classic than in this wine. At any rate, this wine is medium-weight with some yellow fruits, but it could use more tightness on the palate to my tastes to make an even better wine. Screw cap closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 003 23. 87/C
2022 Hochheim Riesling trocken
This is a crisp, light, refreshing wine with a fair amount of acidity (7.7g/l) balanced by 4.8g/l residual sugar. At this point, I find it correct, but not exciting, but more time in the bottle may bring more out. Screw cap closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 007 23. 88+/B-
2022 Hochheimer Kirchenstück Riesling trocken Erste Lage
The Erste Lage Kirchenstück shows pleasing white fruits with some citric elements in a medium-weight body. The texture is round, a touch soft and lacks the crispness and penetration of a still better wine. I’d drink this over the next 4-5 years. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 016 23. 88/B-
2021 Hochheimer Domdechenay Riesling trocken Erste Lage
Werner’s 2021 Erste Lage Domdechenay is, as is typical, more structured than the Kirchenstück, but I think that also shows the difference in the vintages. The wine is medium-weight with good minerality and apple fruit. Screw cap closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 018 22. 90/B+
2021 (Hochheim) Hölle Im Neuenberg Riesling GG
Powerful, yellow fruits, touch of date, intense, mineral, complex, sensuous texture, good depth. 93/A
2022 (Hochheim) Hölle Im Neuenberg Riesling GG
Spicy, nutmeg nose. Medium-weight, sensuous texture, less opulent than the 2021. Excellent persistence in the mouth. Tasted from a cask sample. (91-94)
2021 (Hochheim) Kirchenstück Im Stein Riesling GG
Lovely finesse, complex expression of yellow fruits with the finesse of Kirchenstück, some minimality here. 93/A
2022 (Hochheim) Kirchenstück Im Stein Riesling GG
Nutmeg nose. Yellow fruits, touch of nutmeg on the palate, more finesse, less power than the 2021, not as much structure, either, although it is not lacking. Not yet in bottle; tasted from a sample. (91-94)
2022 (Hochheim) Dompräsenz Riesling GG
Pain d’épices/gingerbread spice in the nose. Clear, round, smooth, yellow fruits, glossy texture, lacks just a touch of tightness in structure compared to the Kirchenstück im Stein. This is from a portion of the Domdechaney vineyard. Not yet in bottle; tasted from a cask sample. (90-93)
2022 Riesling Classic (feinherb)
Although not so labelled (except on the estate’s website), this wine is technically a feinherb with 12.9 g/l residual sugar. But the 7 g/l acidity is enough to make the wine taste essentially dry, even to a palate such as mine that is very sensitive to residual sugar (nevertheless, there is enough effect of the r.s. to kill a truly dry wine served after it). The wine is medium-weight with good penetration and and yellow fruit aromas and flavors. It can be drunk on its own or with food and should be at its peak for 4-6 years, at least. Screw cap closure. 12% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 005 23. 89/A
2022 Hochheim Riesling Kabinett
As with many contemporary wines labelled Kabinett, this has Spätlese-like sweetness. But there is good acidity to counter it. White fruits with a slight touch of brown sugar here. I’d drink over the next 10-12 years. 49.8 g/l residual sugar, 8.1 g/l acidity. Screw cap closure. 10.0% stated alcohol on the bottle, 9.5% stated alcohol on the web site. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 009 23.89/A-
2022 Hochheim Hölle Riesling Spätlese
This wine is sweeter still than the Kabinett, as one would expect. The wine has good acidic bite to counter the sugar and shows good length to its white fruits that need time to develop further complexity.67.4 g/l residual sugar, 7.7 g/l residual sugar. Screw cap closure. 8.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 010 23. 89(+)/B
2022 Rosé Spätburgunder & Frühburgunder
This is a medium-weight, round, and fruity rosé. Your reaction to it will depend in large part on what you are looking to use the wine for and what your stylistic preferences. For me, when drinking rosé on its own, I like the wine to be bone-dry and nervy, which this is not. With food, this type of wine can do much better, and so it is in this context that I judge the wine. Screw cap closure. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 014 23. 87/B+