Domaine Tempier, Bandol -- 2020 and 2019 reds, 2022 rosé

Bandol is a seaport on the Mediterranean, east from Marseilles. But the vines of the appellation stretch inland to the north, considerably beyond the boundaries of the seaport. The appellation Bandol gives rise to what may be the greatest red wine of Southern France. There are plenty of first-rate estates such as Terrebrune, Pradeaux, and Bastide Blanche, but Tempier has long been recognized as in a class of its own.

I’ve been drinking young Tempier for well over forty years and still have plenty of bottles in my cellar, going back as far as 1988. In the words of Richard Olney, who knew the wines of Tempier well, I’ve never had a Tempier too old or too young. And I’ve never encountered an estate where I could with more confidence select a bottle from the cellar and know that it will be great when opened.

It’s not surprising, therefore, that Tempier, which was never particularly cheap, has been increasing rapidly in price.

Ripeness is an issue for Tempier in these global warming times, as it is for all of Bandol and indeed virtually all established wine regions. The situation is perhaps exasperated by the fact that when Daniel Ravier took over the winemaking duties at the beginning of this century, he switched from the prior practice of harvesting everything at one go once the harvest began to harvesting each block at its optimal ripeness. This can raise the overall ripeness, and thus alcohol, of the wine. It still can work well, as in 2011 and 2016, which are magnificent vintages at Tempier, but it can be problematic in other vintages. In 2019 and 2020, both quite ripe vintages, I found mixed results, although better than I might have expected given the alcohols.

Although not certified on the label, the estate has long been farmed under organic practicesm and a request for certification is now pending; furthermore, in recent years the viticulture has gone on to biodynamic practices.

2022 Bandol rosé

This is a ripe, round rosé with peach aromas and flavors. It drinks well already and should continue to improve for several years. It is a worthy successor to the great 2021. Cork closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot LS 22.05.05. 90/A

2019 Bandol rouge

It’s really hard to give an opinion on this wine. On the one hand, it is quite delicious, and on that deliciousness alone, worthy of a score of 92 or 93. On the other hand, I find very little of Tempier and even Bandol in this wine. There’s plenty of dark cherry fruit here, a round body, a velvet texture, and medium-plus weight. My experience with Tempier in the past is that the wines have a very, very long aging potential, yet, this wine is so forward that I’d opt for drinking it young. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot LR 19 07 09. 91?/A-

2019 Bandol rouge

This is a different lot of the wine from that which I previously reviewed. Here, there is no doubt of Tempier character, even if it is less marked than in some other vintages. The wine has a smoky, earthy nose typical of Tempier and Mourvèdre (which typically makes up about 75% of this cuvée) in general. The mouth is medium-weight and broad with moderate acidity and a silk texture to go with dark fruit and soy flavors. Unlike almost any other Tempier I’ve had, it’s a wine I would consume in the next 4-6 years (although it may well last longer) even though there still is some tannin on the finish. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot LR 19 06 13 82. 92/A

2019 Bandol   La Tourtine rouge

Not the precision in the nose that one expects from a superior cuvée, but plenty in the mouth with layered dark cherry fruit and a medium-full body with good length. As always with La Tourtine, expect to wait 15-20 years for it to show its full potential. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot LR 19 01. 91+/A-

2020 Bandol   Lulu et Lucien rouge

From the 2020 vintage on, the former cuvée Classique will be called cuvée Lulu et Lucien, named after the late owners who brought the estate and the appellation to renown. The stated alcohol on this wine certainly gets me thinking. But it does not destabilize the wine. Instead, what we have is a rich, powerful, but harmonious wine with dark cherry and strawberry fruits and a little bit of the funky aromatics (Mourvèdre reduction) that hasn’t been in the wines since the 1990s (and which disappears with bottle age). I admit that I like it — but if you’re looking for the Tempiers of the last century, you’ll not find them here, and quite probably ever again. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot LR 20 04 02. 92/A

2020 Bandol   La Migoua rouge

La Migoua is probably my favorite cuvée from Tempier (well, there was also La Louffe, but made only twice back in the 1980s, so don’t ask). It has a smoothness texture that is unique not just to Tempier but to my wine experience in general and expressive dark cherry fruit. This may not be La Migoua at its very finest  (a tall challenge), but still, very fine La Migoua worthy of your serious attention; it drinks well now and I would expect a 30-40 year life to it. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot LR 20 02. 94/A

2020 Bandol   La Tourtine rouge

Unlike the La Migoua, which has the same stated alcohol, here the alcohol can seem excessive, and instead of integrating with the rest of the wine, it stands apart and burns; I’d not be surprised to learn that the actual alcohol level is substantially higher than that stated. In any case, the wine has no definition to the fruit. I hate to say it about one of my favorite estates, but avoid this wine — there’s plenty of other great Tempier around.  Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot LR 20 03. ?