Domaine Méo-Camuzet and Maison Méo-Camuzet Soeurs et Frère (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2022 Tasted from Barrel and Tank Samples
Harvesting began on 29 August. Yields were in the range of 35-40 hl/ha, with a few places above that. Alcohols range from 12.5 to 13.5º with two wines at 14º (Corton-Clos Rognet and Corton-Perrières). In 2022 (as in 2023), there was no chaptalization. Stems were used only in the Corton-Perrières
.
Overall, these approach the fabulous 2021s that I reviewed here, but are of in a different style, that of a much warmer year.
Wines marked with an asterisk (*) are négociant wines from Maison Méo-Camuzet Soeurs et Frère; all other wines are Domaine Méo-Camuzet.
2022 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Clos Saint-Philibert blanc
This wine will be bottled in December. It has richness and depth with a good expression of Chardonnay fruit and good length. (89-91)
Moving now to red wines:
2022 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Cuvée Étienne Camuzet
This is the estate Bourgogne (there is a négociant version bottled under the Méo-Camuzet Soeurs et Frère label). The wine shows good red Pinot fruit, density, complexity, and a creamy texture. The vines are located between Chambolle-Musigny and Nuits-Saint-Georges. No new oak on this wine. The wine is already in tank awaiting bottling. (89-91)
*2022 Fixin
The wine shows more structure and depth than the Bourgogne, a creamy texture, length, finesse, medium weight, and red fruits. It is a good example of how the climate change has helped colder sites. No new oak on this wine. (91-93)
2022 Vosne-Romanée
This is the assemblage of the Aux Communes (20%) and Les Barreaux (80%) lieux-dits. The wine is smooth and creamy with dark and red fruits and minerality. It is attractive, but needs more time. 50% new oak here. (90-93)
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes
This wine is creamy and dense with dark fruits and just a touch of anise. There’s good length and freshness here. (91-94)
2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Murgers
From a generally underestimated vineyard, the Nuits-Murgers has stony aromas. The mouth shows good structure beneath the creamy texture and the wine is energetic and penetrating. (93-95)
2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Aux Boudots
The Nuits-Boudots has Vosne spices in its nose. The mouth is creamy, and smooth with Vosne sprce and outstanding harmony. (93-96)
*2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes
The Chambolle-Feusselottes is creamy with minerality, lovely delineation and precision for fruit, length, and finesse. This wine has long been from vineyards owned by Tim Marshall (and now his heirs) and in recent years another plot from a different owner. This is the last year of inclusion of the Marshall vineyard and future versions will be solely from the second owner. (92-95)
*2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Charmes
Beginning in 2021, Méo-Camuzet began making wine from this vineyard in 2021, same ownership as the new Feusselottes supplier. A total of 7.5 barrels (2250 bottles) in 2022. The wine is elegant, light, and pure, and it falls on the tongue. Almost lacy here. Classic Chambolle and Charmes. (93-95)
2022 Clos de Vougeot
This is the full assemblage of wine from all parcels. Harvesting was at the beginning — on 29 and 30 August. As one would expect, there’s more structure here than for the Chambolles, Great depth, salinity, and power. A fine example of Clos de Vougeot. (93-96)
2022 Corton Clos Rognet
Dating back to the 1980s, this has been Méo’s most underrated wine, and it continues all these years later to be so. It is always the first vineyard harvested at the domaine. This is classic Clos Rognet with plenty of tannin but balanced and long with dark fruit. 14º alcohol here, but no feeling of excess — pH is 3.50. (94-96)
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Brulées
Lacy with dark fruits, precision, penetration, elegance, minerality, and energy. This is a great wine, from vines abutting Richebourg and across the road/little valley that separates it from the great majority of Brulées vines that have a different exposition. (95-97)
2022 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Au Cros Parantoux
In the late 1980s through the early 2000s, I frequently found the Cros Parantoux here slightly superior to the Richebourg. That had ceased to be the case in general for some time, but I found with this vintage I had marginal preference for the Cros Parantoux — although it’s a matter of splitting hairs. The wine is light with finesse and incredible precision and energy. 3.37 pH here. (97-99)
2022 Richebourg
Broader in the mouth than the Cros Parantoux, pure, mineral, but not as open today. Long with dark fruits. (96-98)