Domaine Hubert LIGNIER (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2022 Tasted from Cask Samples

The problem at this outstanding estate has always been getting ahold of the wines, as holdings in most vineyards were quite small. Since Laurent Lignier has come onboard there have been a number of purchases of vineyards and also a négociant line. Estate wines are labelled Domaine Hubert Lignier, négociant wines are just labelled Hubert Lignier. Even if you can’t get the exact wine you want, there’s plenty of other wines worthy of your attention.

Laurent said he harvested between 1-11 September. He characterized yields as “a little heavy” — but regular across the board. There was plenty of juice in the grapes — 330 kg to make a barrel, which is is about average; in 2023 it is 340-350 kg. Alcohols are around 13º, 13,5º maximum. He sees good expression of Pinot with red fruits, more homogenous than 2023. No acidification here. 3.4-3.5 pH before vinification, after 3.6.

20-30% whole clusters used, pigeage to seek a bit more material because skins weren’t especially thick. The wines were decanted warm — 25ºC — so that they would finish their alcoholic fermentations, and there were no fermentation problems. On average, cuvaisons (vattings) were 18 days.

Malolactic fermentations began in December, and generally finished in March, some a little later. 

All wines below are red.

2022 Bourgogne  Les Grands Chaillots

Floral, perfumed nose. In the mouth, pure, with plenty of red fruits, round, smooth, sensual. The vineyard, which is by Nuits-Saint-Georges, was planted in 1987. Bottled a week ago. 89/A

2022 Bourgogne   Plan Gilbert

Fresh, red fruits, medium-weight, dense, sappy, plenty of fruit. good depth. Maybe needs a bit more time. The vineyard is by Chambolle-Musigny and was planted in 1968. Cordon trellising. 40-45 hl/ha. Bottled a week ago. 89+/A

Together with another Monthélie producer, Lignier acquired the vineyards of Domaine Gerbault in Monthélie. As a result, there are now new wines from Monthélie and Volnay in the portfolio. 2022 is the first year of conversion of those vineyards to organic farming.

2022 Monthélie  1er Cru  Sur la Velle

Light, airy, red fruits, juicy, elegant. 20% whole clusters. Will bottle a little earlier than others, perhaps April. Lignier has 0.35 ha here, and the vines are at least 50 years old. (88-90)

2022 Volnay 

Lovely round, plump wine with red fruits, very elegant, long — not terribly sophisticated but delicious. Will bottle around June. Lignier has 0.26 ha here, old vines, half in Ez Blanches, half in Ez Echards. (89-91)

2022 Pommard En Brescule 

As expected, harder structure than the Volnay and Monthéilie, and darker fruit, more rustic, good acidity. Located in the upper part of the vineyard. Lignier has 41 ares here. The vineyard was planted in 1997 and Lignier acquired it in 2014. (88-90)

2022 Chambolle-Musingy  vieilles vignes

Closed nose. Medium-weight, round, sensual, vanilla/tonka bean flavors. Some tannin. 20% new wood, 1/3 whole cluster. Generally harvests a bit after Bussières. This wine is from purchased grapes, 60% in the Les Gamaires lieux-dit, 40% in the Les Drazey lieu-dit. (89-91)

2022 Chambolle-Musigny  Bussières

Rounder, plumper, more rustic than the Chambolle vieilles vignes. Dark fruits, a bit of plum here. 20% new wood, 1/3 whole cluster. (89-92)

2022 Morey-Saint-Denis   Trilogie 

Dark fruit, plump, round, ripe. This wine is from three vineyards, Chenevery (60 %), Clos Solon (15 %), and Porroux (25 %), bordering premier cru vineyards. In total, 1 ha of vines. The vineyards originally were planted in 1936, 1942, 1964, and 1972, but about half the vines from then have now been replanted. (89-91)

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin  Regnard

Ripe, round, a bit sappy, dark fruits with some black licorice, rustic, powerful. From purchased grapes, Laurent harvests this plot relatively early. The vines are planted north-south to give more shade. (87-89)

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin  Les Seuvrées

Round, plump, sappy, dark fruits, medium-full. Les Seuvrées borders Morey-Saint-Denis and these vines were planted in the 1950s and 1960s, with a portion pre-war. 1,03 ha. (88-91)

2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges   Les Poisets

Dark fruits, light texture, can feel the stoniness, good freshness. A bit of creaminess to texture, good acidity. From a vineyard just below Les Cailles, planted in 1947. Purchased in 2010 with three friends. 0.34 ha. (89-91)

2022 Chambolle-Musigny   1er Cru  Les Chabiots

Spicy red fruits, light. In mouth, Medium-light weight, red fruits. The wine is from purchased grapes. The vines were planted in 1997. The vineyard borders Amoureuses in part. (88-91)

2022 Chambolle-Musigny  1er Cru Les Baudes

Round, reddish fruits, good acidity, smooth. From vines planted in 1960, 0.18 ha. (90-93)

2022 Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte

Red fruits, red licorice, medium-light in weight, long, airy. Delightful, drink well early but should age well. Vines planted in 1959, 33% new wood.(92-94)

2022 Morey-St-Denis  1er Cru Les Chaffots

Light, mineral, lively, red and dark fruits, energetic, long. (92-95)

2022 Morey-Saint-Denis   1er Cru  vieilles vignes

Round, smooth, long, dark. but not with the development in mouth of the Chaffots. This wine is 75% from Faconnières, 25% from Chenevery in one contiguous parcel. (91-93)

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin  1er Cru   Petite Chapelle

Red fruits, with some dark highlights, good acidity and tension, depth, energy. Alas there is only one barrel of this wine. (92-95)

2022 Gevrey-Chambertin   1er  Les Combottes

Perfumed nose. Red fruits with density, intensity, energy, a bit of licorice. Three barrels of this wine, of which one is new. (92-95)

2022 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru  Les Didiers  (Hospices des Nuits)

Dark fruits, intense, concentrated, some tannins. The Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges owns the entirety of the outdstanding Les Didiers vineyard and Lignier annually purchases wine there and finishes raising it. (91-94)

2022 Mazoyères-Chambertin

This is the estate wine that had long been sold as Charmes-Chambertin, but now is labelled Mazoyères-Chambertin to avoid confusion with the wine below. Vines planted in 1948. Leafy nose. Elegant for Mazoyères, round, smooth, perhaps less wild than in other vintages. (92-94)

2022 Charmes-Chambertin

Meaty nose. Light, racy, intense, dark fruits, energetic. This is purchased wine. (93-95)

2022 Clos-Vougeot

Dark fruit, anise, med-light, elegant, long. Perhaps a bit atypical Clos-Vougeot, but satisfying. (92-94)

2022 Clos de la Roche 

Dark, licorice, good liveliness, energy, depth. Classic Clos de la Roche expression. Very old vines here, dating to the mid-1960s.  (94-96)

2022 Clos de la Roche  cuvée MCMLV

From vines planted in 1955 by Laurent’s grandfather, Henri Lignier, a massale selection of the estate’s best vines. Three barrels made. Dark, dense, pure, penetrating, great complexity, fresh. This is the standard for what Clos de la Roche is, and a very great wine.  (97-99)