Domaine G. ROUMIER/Christophe ROUMIER* -- 2023 Tasted from Barrel
Christophe Roumier said that he began harvesting on 16 September and that the harvest lasted six or seven days. There was very little need for sorting of the grapes and he did no chaptalization (alcohols range from 13.1 to 13.6%). Whole clusters varied from 50% in the Chambolle-Musigny to 100% in the Musigny. Malolactic fermentations finished rather early for here, in March 2024. He anticipates bottling the wines in February and March 2025.
Wines marked with an asterisk are labelled Christophe Roumier; the other wines are labelled G. Roumier.
2023 Chambolle-Musigny
Red and dark fruits, smooth and round in the mouth, long, fresh, and delicious. (91-93)
2023 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière
The Clos de la Bussière has dark fruits and purity along with more structure than the village Chambolle. Very good penetration and depth. From vines that now average about 40-45 years of age. (92-94)
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Combottes
A little lighter on the palate than the Morey-Clos de la Bussière, long and smooth in the mouth, dark fruits, some structure. (91-94)
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
The Cras is denser and rounder than the Combottes with cherry and other fruits, depth, penetration, and freshness. (93-95)
2023 Echézeaux
In addition to the plot in En Orveaux that Roumier acquired some years ago, the estate has now also added vines planted in 1981 in Champs Traversins, roughly tripling the total surface area and dramatically changing the profile of the wine. This wine is very smooth and velvety with dark fruits, length, and a touch of licorice. 80% whole clusters here. (95-97)
2023 Charmes-Chambertin Aux Mazoyères*
Dark fruits, long, racy, the finesse of the vintage. An excellent Charmes-Chambertin, and even better considering it’s Mazoyères lieu-dit provenance, where the wines can be more rustic than those from the Charmes lieu-dit. (94-96)
2023 Ruchottes-Chambertin*
Dark, stony, long, round, and racy with the silkiness of the vintage. A great exposition of the terroir. (95-97)
2023 Bonnes-Mares
As I reported from my visit to taste the 2022s at Roumier, the estate has obtained more vines on terres blanches soils, and that has altered the character of the wine, making it less muscular and lighter and more ethereal when young. This wine was vinified in four separate cuvées, but what I am tasting is the combination of them. The wine is light, pure, lovely, and intense. In a word: magic. (97-99)
2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses
Darks fruits, which usually characterize Roumier’s Amoureuses in contrast to others. The wine is light, layered, and pure. Another magical wine. (97-99)
2023 Musigny
Two barrels produced in the abundant 2023 vintage (but no Musigny produced here in 2024). As mentioned above, this wine is 100% whole cluster. The fruit is dark, pure, and intense with great depth and minerality. The wine at this point does not show the charm of the preceding wines and needs many years to full maturity, but it should be quite amazing when it gets there. (98-99)
As usual, Roumier presents some of the most compelling wines in Burgundy at each appellation level.