I did not visit Burgundy in 2022 or 2021 to taste from barrel, so this is the first time I have tasted these wines.
The 2021s here show what I have seen at other top domaines — the equivalent in overall quality of the best 2022s, although in a different, more restrained style. As for the 2020 Bonnes-Mares, don’t even think of opening it now, but sometime in the second half of the 21st century it may well be an astonishing wine.
2021 Chambolle-Musigny
The nose here is still rather closed, which is not unusual for a wine this young. The mouth is smooth in texture with tons of dark fruits, spice, density, elegance, and good structure. Completely remarkable as a village wine. 94/A+
2021 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière
Roumier’s monopole, the nose here is stony and still needs time to open. The mouth is smooth and creamy with lightness on the palate, dark fruits and a slight earthiness (positive) that is characteristic of the terroir. Give this wine 10-15 years in the bottle and it will be lovely. 94/A
2021 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras
The 2021 Chambolle-Cras has spicy, stony red fruit aromas. The mouth shows darker fruit that is spicy and pure. The wine has finesse and elegance and somewhat less structure than the Clos de la Bussière. 94+/A
2021 Bonnes-Mares
The 2021 Bonnes-Mares has a deep, earthy dark fruit nose characteristic of Bonnes-Mares. The mouth is round and pure with red and dark fruits. The wine shows power yet is airy and charming at the same time. Simply, a fabulous Bonnes-Mares, although still decades away from its peak. 98/A+
2020 Bonnes-Mares
Christophe Roumier called this wine a monster. It appears violent after the 2022s and 2021s, yet it is deep and complex, even if the balance of the two subsequent vintages is not evident. My experience is that wines such as this can come around to be very impressive, but expect it to take decades, if that will happen. 97?/A+