Domaine de l'ARLOT -- 2023 Tasted from Bottle and Samples
Géraldine Godot, Technical Director of Domaine de l’Arlot, said that the 2023 harvest took place between 6 and 12 September. Yields on average were 43hl/ha, but in no appellation did the wines reach the limit on permitted limits. Alcohols are 13-13.5º with a little chaptalization. Malolactic fermentations went rapidly for the reds, a little later for the whites because they are in a colder cellar.
The premier crus and the grand cru will have cork closures, the other wines have/will have DIAM closures.
As in recent vintages here, grapes were 100% destemmed for the reds, with which we start:
2023 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Le Mont
Bottled in September. Medium-light, charming, cherry fruit, some structure, but drinks well now. This is the last vintage of the red for this location; yields were too low, and so the vineyard will be converted to Chardonnay, which produces more. This is a good value in Burgundy, and so worth seeking out. 90+A
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages Clos du Chapeau
Also bottled in September. More closed in nose than the Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits, but more complex in mouth with layering of red fruit flavors. 91/A
The reds below are raised, on average, 40% in new oak.
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Mont des Oiseaux
This wine is produced from the Clos de l’Arlot’s youngest vines (planted in 1998, 1999, and 2000), coming from the top of the Clos on white limestone soils and the bottom on marl soils As one would expect, there is More structure and depth here than in the previous wines. This wine can be drunk now, but should show even better in the future. The wine features pretty red fruits, and one can feel the Prémeaux limestone. (91-94)
2023 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Clos de l’Arlot
Medium-light, good depth and penetration with red fruits beautifully delineated. (92-95)
Looking at the Clos de l’Arlot through the window.
2023 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots
The nose features Suchots earthiness. In the mouth, the wine is light, pure, and sensual, and shows good penetration and length. Red fruits with a bit darker hue than the previous and with spices. Beautifully harmonious, airy. (93-96)
2023 NSG 1er cru Clos des Forêts St-Georges
Medium-weight velvet texture, red fruits and blood orange flavors; long and deep in mouth. Heading virtually grand cru quality. Tannins are ripe. Great future. (94-96)
2023 Romanée-Saint-Vivant
Velvet, creamy texture, medium weight, less developed than others right now. Very long in mouth. Needs plenty of time. (94-96)
White wines:
2023 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits Le Mont
Bottled in mid-September. Raised entirely in wood. Mineral with a creamy texture. From vines planted 2012. Charming, for early drinking. 87/A-
2023 Côte de Nuits-Villages Au Leurey
Pure, clear, round but with structure. some minerality. From vines planted in 2006. Charming, drink young. 87+/B
Both of the two previous wines have a small percentage of Chardonnay Muscaté, enough to give them some spiciness, but not enough to dominate.
2023 NSG 1er Cru Clos de l’Arlot
Orange zest, apricot, medium light, elegant, excellent depth and length. Finesse but also with density. (92-94)
Once again, Géraldine Godot has put together a superb set of wines at Domaine de l’Arlot.
Géraldine Godot