Domaine Anne GROS and Domaine Paul GROS (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2023 Tasted from Tank
Julie Tollot-Gros said that harvesting began on 7 September with the red grand cru vineyards, then moved to the Coteaux Bourguignons, and finished with the Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits on the 28th. The reds are high in alcohol — up to 14.8º for the Grands-Echézeaux, although the alcohols weren’t showing. The wines were in tank when I tasted, waiting for bottling the following week (the first week of December).
The vintage here is filled with excellent wines.
We start with the white wines:
2023 Coteaux Bourguignons blanc cuvée Julie
This wine formerly had been labelled Bourgogne-Chardonnay. Unlike some Coteaux Bourguignons whites that contain Aligté, this wine is 100% Chardonnay. Pure, fragrant nose, smooth, pure, apple fruit. Charming, fresh. 12.5-13º alcohol. (86-88)
2023 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits blanc cuvée Marine
A bit more structure than the Coteaux Bourguignons, but similar to Coteaux Bourguignons. 12.8º alcohol. (87-89)
On to the reds:
2023 Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits rouge
Mineral red currant nose. In the mouth, red currants, freshness, light, charming. 25 year-old vines. (87-89)
2023 Coteaux Bourguignons rouge
As with the white Coteaux Bourguignon, in previous years this had been labelled Bourgogne. 100% Pinot Noir although Coteaux Bourguignons can contain Gamay, 60 year-old vines. Very pure, red fruits, light on palate but good concentration. (88-91)
2023 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau
Nice complexity in nose. Precise red currant fruits. Equally divided among barrels that are new, 1 year-old, and two years-old. Red currants, raspberries. Light on palate, long, great charm. (90-93)
2023 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux
Lovely vinosity, pure, with red fruits, light on palate with good firmness, 75 year-old vines. (91-94)
2023 Echézeaux Les Loachausses
Smooth texture with small spices, medium-weight, red fruits good length.A very fine Echézeaux. (93-96)
2023 Clos Vougeot Le Grand Maupertuis
Clos-Vougeot black raspberry fruit. Medium-weight, excellent Clos-Vougeot character. Needs some time, but tremendous fruit now. (94-96)
2023 Grands-Echézeaux
Deep, floral, perfumed nose. Red fruits, raspberry, very sensual. Dense, medium-plus weight, velvet texture, long. Superb; the high alcohol is not disturbing or even evident. (95-97)
2023 Richebourg
Round, sensual, pure, dark plums, purity, penetration, length, (96-99)
Beginning in 2009, Anne Gros began taking steps to pass her domaine to her children. The history of the Gros vineyards is complicated and is explained here.
Julie’s brother Paul has begun his own estate, known as Domaine Paul Gros, with vines that he has received from Domaine Anne Gros.
The wines here are excellent, but somewhat different in style form those of Domaine Anne Gros. In particular, Paul looks for more dark fruits and with different extraction, different wood, and to do some vintages with whole clusters. 2023 is the second year of production here.
2023 Bourgogne rouge La Croix d’Argent
From the La Croix Blanche lieu-dit between Nuits and Vosne. This is darker in fruit and riper than the Anne Gros Bourgogne. Smooth, dark plum fruit, spices, pure, (88-90)
2023 Vosne-Romanée Aux Communes
Rich, ripe, round, plums, dark fruits. smooth, good depth. From center of village, spiced dark fruit nose. Three of seven barrels are new. (90-93)
2023 Echézeaux (Les Beaux Monts Bas)
15% whole cluster. Can’t put lieu-dit Les Beaux Monts Bas on the label. Spicy whole cluster nose., dark fruit, more power than domaine wine, velvet texture. Quite different style from Anne Gros. (93-96)