Domaine A. & P. de VILLAINE (Bouzeron) -- Part I: 2023 and 2022 Whites Tasted from Bottle
Pierre de Benoist said that yields in 2023 were not as large on the Côte Chalonnaise as on the Côte de Beaune. The estate has been using volcanic sulfur which permits lower doses of sulfur in the wines.
This is an outstanding set of white wine; overall quality varies very little, yet the expression of the various terroirs, and hence the resulting wines as described in the notes, is quite varied.
The estate has practiced organic and biodynamic methods for 25 years, but is certified only as organic.
All wines have cork closures.
2023 Bouzeron
Mineral nose. Medium-weight very pure, mineral, smooth, complete, racier than than the wines of 25 years ago, more tension and freshness. Bouzeron, an appellation created in 1998 due to the efforts of the estate’s founder, Aubert de Villaine, is by definition Aligoté, and here it is the Raisin Doré type. 17 parcels go into this wine, most are at higher elevation which helps to keep yields down; also use the Gobelet pruning to limit yields. Nine lieu-dits are vinified separately. 13º alcohol. 92/A
2023 Rully Les Saint Jacques
Beautiful, pure, penetrating wine with minerality, perfect balance. Very fresh, with white fruits. Recalls the great 2001 version of this wine. 13,5º 92/A
For Rully 1er crus, the order of the wines begins from the southern part of the appellation where the temperature is coolest and where there is the most limestone.
Note that we change vintage here, and these are all from 2022.
2022 Rully 1er Cru Margotés
Light, pure, mineral, penetrating, steely, almost biting acidity on palate gives extra freshness. Vinified for the most part in foudre (large wooden oval). Three different ages for vines, the average age is 50-60 years. 13.5º alcohol. 92/A
2022 Rully 1er Cru Grésigny
Broader in mouth but still with excellent acidity, tension, energy, and white fruits. Excellent depth, but with steeliness even though broader, perhaps not quite as incisive as the Margotés. From 80 year-old vines. 13.5º alcohol. 92/A
2022 Rully 1er Cru Montpalais
Pierre notes that the skin here gives a bitterness that offsets lost of acidity in this very ripe wine. 12% of the vines are Chardonnay muscaté, a type of Chardonnay that is very spicy. Lower acidity here, broader, very clear, more Côte de Beaune in style than the previous wines. Just a hint of spice from the Chardonnay muscaté. A very different style of wine from the previous, one that I would be inclined to drink earlier whereas the others can drink now or hold. Notwithstanding the fact that I ordinarily dislike wines with Chardonnay muscaté and prefer wines with lower alcohol, both elements are handled with deftness here, making this a very fine wine. 50% new oak here. 14.5º alcohol. 92/A
2022 Rully 1er Cru Les Cloux
Mineral, pure, but texture is less steely, some lime elements;. very pure and focused. Pierre says that when young, the wines from this vineyard taste like they’re from the Côte de Beaune, but with age they revert to Rully style. This wine is from the northern slope which is different both geologically and in weather from the southern slope. 13.5º alcohol. 92+/A
2022 Rully 1er Cru Raclot
Lime blossom nose. Seemingly lower in acidity than previous wines, more breadth showing, Côte de Beaune style. Young vines. 14º alcohol. 91+/A-
2022 Rully 1er Cru Rabourcé
Most full in the mouth, seemingly lower acidity still than previous wines, yet despite this, the texture is steely; pure, white fruits, clear. Again very Côte de Beaune style. Perhaps a touch less depth than others. Pierre notes that Rabourcé is the 1er cru vineyard that is the most honored in Rully and that is the warmest terroir in the appellation. The higher part of the vineyard had vines from 1955 (they were pulled up in 2024), the lower part from 1990. Vinified mostly in foudre. 14º alcohol. 91+/A-
2022 St-Aubin 1er Cru Les Perrières
Fairly closed in nose. Good acidity for vintage, apple and a touch of peach fruit, firm body, some minerality, but real depth and concentration, chiseled. Outstanding future. Good energy. 14º alcohol. 93/A