CONTERNO-NERVI

Wines of Cantine Nervi from New Owner Roberto Conterno of Giacomo Conterno

In any discussion of the greatest Barolo producers, Giacomo Conterno, run for some time by Roberto Conterno, is often mentioned as the greatest estate. In recent years, new vineyards have been added to the estate and it has also acquired Cantine Nervi, one of the top Gattinara estates. This gives the opportunity to sample Roberto’s genius at less ferocious prices.

2018 Gattinara  Vigna Mosino

This wine needed overnight in the decanter to begin to show its stuff, but then it simply overwhelmed. This wine has tar, roses, chocolate, plums, licorice, and more, all making for great complexity. The texture is smooth and light on the palate, but there are still substantial tannins here. Ideally, I’d wait another five years before beginning to drink. Cork closure. 14.5% stated alcohol. Lot L.M.1.21. 95(+)/A+

2019 Gattinara

This wine needs a few days after opening to begin to come together, and ideally should not be drunk for a number of years. But the parts are all here waiting to come together: roses, raspberry, and tar in the nose and mouth, density of texture with medium-weight, and very good length and incision. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot LG1.22. 91+/A

2019 Gattinara  Vigna Valferrana

There’s depth and concentration in this wine and plenty of fruit, but so far, it still hasn’t gelled and clarified. The wine is medium-full with a smooth texture and tannins that area quite round for a Nebbiolo this young, but I still would wait several years on this wine. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Loty LV1.22. 91+/A

2020 Gattinara

This is a wine of magnificent purity and focus with roses, raspberries, and red cherries in a medium-light body with a silk texture and round tannins. There is the balance for aging, but the wine drinks beautifully, already. Cork closure. 14% stated alcohol. Lot L G1.23. 94/A+