Chonbou, Paris 9

The name Chonbou is confusing, but it is explained in a light-hearted “dictionary entry” printed on the reverse of the business card:

Following the rules of the French slang language Verlan, it is the reversal of the two syllables of bouchon (cork), which in turn reflects the fact that the establishment is both a cave (wine shop) and a restaurant.

The restaurant is in the northwestern part of the ninth arrondissement, north of the Gare Saint-Lazare and near where the eight, ninth, seventeenth, and eighteenth arrondissements all meet up.

The interior is bright and airy, and there are dampers to keep the noise down.

The restaurant was virtually full by 8.30 pm with only one or two two-tops that had been reserved still empty. With the exception of our table and two Dutch-speaking people at the table next to us, everyone was speaking French, as best I could tell. Most people were in the 25-50 age category, although there were scattered older people.

The carte is contemporary French cuisine:

At lunch, Chonbou offers formules of (1) first and main course for 34€, (2) main course and dessert for 32€, and (3) first-main-dessert for 42€.

There is no wine list — all the wines available are on display in the restaurant/wine shop with the retail prices discretely marked at the bottom of the bottle. A sommelier is there to help you choose your bottle, if you wish. You pay a “corkage” fee of 12€ per bottle, considerably less than the markup would be in any other restaurant in Paris. A good supply of magnums is available for large parties, and the “corkage” for magnums is 24€. The wines are entirely from independent vignerons. there are no négociant wines or wines from properties belonging insurance companies, banks, etc., and the selection of producers is very good. With this policy, it’s difficult to spend a lot on wine (some expensive bottles are available, but don’t expect to find bottles well into three figures). For those who don’t want a full bottle, there are wines available by the glass.

Given what L and I were ordering, I determined that a lighter red would be the best option. After weighing various options, I decided on an Alsatian Pinot Noir from Trapet (the family that also makes great wines in Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy).

This was a beautiful wine, light and elegant with plenty of forward, well-defined red berry fruits in the nose and mouth.

For her first course, L chose the tartelette brûlée salé au miso blanc:

This was somewhat disappointing because it was served at room temperature instead of heated (what one wanted on a cold night) and the room temperature served to emphasize a slight bit of sweetness in the saké gel below the greens.

I took the frog legs with cream of confit garlic, parsley, butternut squash calisson, parsley chips, and vin jaune foam:

The dish was satisfying without being really special, that is, no extra depth or precision here.

L took the skate wing (aile de raie) stuffed with Espelette pepper and chervil and with young vegetables for her main dish:

It very much pleased her.

I took the filet of wild boar (sanglier) in a crust with various beets and a beet sauce and with a miniature pear:

This was very good. The wild boar was flavorful and and showed no toughness despite not being long cooked, and the beets provided good flavor and texture contrast.

Portions here are generous without being huge, and so neither of us had room for dessert this time.

The check (including tax and service, as always in France):

Based on our meal, the food at Chonbou is very good without being spectacular, and with the added wine value, Chonbou is certainly worth your visit.

Chonbou

5 rue Jules Lefebvre, 75009 Paris

Monday-Friday lunch, Monday-Thursday dinner; wine shop hours are somewhat different

Tel: 07 86 91 31 33

website: chonbou.fr

Métro: Liège, Saint-Lazare, Europe, Rome, Place de Clichy