Bourrache, 17 rue Rodier, Paris 9
Let’s get first things out of the way: Bourrache describes itself as a cave à manger - a wine cellar where you can eat. This implies some expertise in wines that in fact is non-existent. The wine list, all natural, is unexceptional. More importantly, the two glasses of wine that I had with my meal were served way too warm, something you can remedy if you order by the bottle (ask for an ice bucket, or seau), but not by the glass. In other words, the house is indifferent if not unknowledgeable about wine. That said, the two food courses I had were not bad at all.
Bourrache, which is the name of a plant with blue flowers, is just two doors up the street from its older sibling, La Condesa, which has a Michelin star and is a more formal restaurant.
The interior closely resembles that of La Condesa — a narrow corridor with seating on both sides:
I took this photo of the room early, but it soon filled up, entirely with French-speaking people.
For some reason, I did not take a photo of the carte.
I began with a glass of Domaine des Ronces, Florale, a Chardonnay from the Jura:
This is a good wine, unfortunately served at room temperature instead of cool.
With it, I took three arancini of lobster with mayonnaise, which was a very satisfying dish:
Next, as nothing on the wine-by-the-glass selections really tempted me and the Beaujolais nouveau had just been released, I took a glass of their Beaujolais nouveau on offer:
It, too, was served at room temperature.
With it, I took the joue de bœuf braisée marinée au miso, sauce marchand de vin, braised beef cheek marinated in miso with a marchand de vin sauce which was satisfying:
The bill:
The food was good here and the bill modest, but if wine is an important part of your meal, I’d look elsewhere.
Bourrache
17, rue Rodier, 75009 Paris
Wednesday-Sunday dinner
Tél : 09 78 80 95 23
Métro: Anvers, Poissonnière, Cadet, Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Saint-Georges