A Handful of Wines from Irancy -- A Red Wine Appellation in Northern Burgundy Worthy of Your Attention

Irancy is a village in Northern Burgundy about 10 miles/17 km southwest of Chablis (and on the opposite side of the A6 autoroute). It has a long history for growing Pinot Noir, and there are also some vines of César and Pinot Gris.  César is a grape associated almost exclusively with Northern Burgundy, and in particular, Irancy.

Irancy became part of the regional appellation Bourgogne in 1977 (the red wines could be labelled Bourgogne Irancy), and in 1999, Irancy became a separate appellation. A minimum of 90% of Irancy must be Pinot Noir, and no more than 10% may be César or Pinot Gris.

Because of its position in Northern Burgundy where the cooler climate was a damper on the vintages and its small surface area, for most of the 20th century wine from Irancy was rarely seen outside of the region except in the hottest of vintages. Indeed, until about eight years ago, the only wine from Irancy that I’d ever drunk was from the (then) very hot 1976 vintage. But with climate change and the big run up in prices for wines from the Côte d’Or, the wines of Irancy, still at relatively modest prices, are beginning to receive deserved attention.

Benoît CANTIN

Located in the village of Irancy itself, Cantin produces four different Irancy wines, as well as a rosé and a ratafia. All the Irancy but the Palotte (not tasted here) are essentially 100% Pinot Noir but may contain “traces" of the César grape. The grapes are destemmed prior to fermentation in temperature-controlled cement tanks. Natural yeasts are used. The wines are raised on oak barrels.

2019 Irancy

This is a medium-weight wine with cranberry and red currant fruit, and a smooth texture. It won’t make you forget reds from the Côte d’Or, but it is enjoyable Pinot Noir at a price less than most reds from the Côte d’Or. I’d decant 15-30 minutes before serving, and as always with Pinot Noir wines, serve it at cellar temperature. 13% stated alcohol. DIAM 5 closure. 88/B+

2020 Irancy   Cuvée Emeline

The Cuvée Emeline is from a selection of parcels; it is named after Benoît Cantin’s daughter. The nose shows spicy dark fruits. The mouth a velvet texture with richness and shows depth to its dark berry fruits and minerality; there’s a touch of tannic bitterness on the back end that I find pleasing. Half or more of the barrels are new here, but the wine does not seem oaky. The wine drinks well now for its fruit, but should improve for several years and then last for still more. 13% stated alcohol. DIAM 5 closure.  90/A

Stéphanie COLINOT

Stéphanie Colinot is from a family of vignerons in Irancy. She studied at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, worked some apprenticeships in the the Côte d’Or, and then returned to her family estate in Irancy in 2001. After sixteen years in the family estate, she felt that she needed to be independent and established her own estate in 2017, starting with 3.2 ha that she reclaimed from her family’s estate. She also has a négociant operation and is married to Jean-Paul Durup of the very fine Jean Durup Père & Fils/Château de Maligny Chablis estate.

2019 Irancy   Au Temps des Cerisiers

This wine, entirely from Pinot Noir, has a medium-light body, satin texture, and slightly muddy red fruits. At a modest price, it makes for good, non-serious drinking over the next 4-8 years. The only non-vineyard designated Irancy from Colinot, it is from various parcels with southern exposure in the Cravant commune (southeast of Irancy). Cork closure. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L IR1904  87/B

Domaine des REMPARTS

2019 Irancy   Les Cailles

This is a medium-light wine with a silky texture and an attractive animality to go with its dark fruits. I’d drink it over the next 5-10 year. 92% Pinot Noir, 8% César. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L.241902. 88/B+

Domaine SAINT-GERMAIN/Christophe FERRARI

2020 Irancy

Entirely from Pinot Noir, this wine is medium-weight and has a velvet texture to go with its dark fruits. In a blind tasting, I would not be able to pick it out from Côte d’Or village wines. UNIQ 5 agglomerate closure. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot LIR2001. 90/A