2022 and 2021 Rheingau Riesling GG Part I -- Flick, Künstler, and Werner
In some quarters, the Rheingau’s reputation is unjustly demeaned by persons who think of early efforts in the 1980s and early 1990s to make dry wines (that were brutal because they were too dry) and because of some large estates that were underproducing. In the former case, the wines are now very well-balanced; and in the latter case, to a large extent, those estates don’t exist any more and the vines have been taken over by some of the top Rheingau estates.
As I indicated in an earlier post, the Rheingau VDP chapter has adopted a rule allowing producers to show their GG in the year following harvest, but they can only sell them beginning September 1 of the second year following harvest. So the 2021s are just coming to market now.
Joachim FLICK
2021 (Hochheim) Königen Victoriaberg Dechantenruhe Riesling GG
You can read the story of the Königen Victoriaberg vineyard and its memorial to Queen Victoria here. The vineyard had fallen out of favor when Flick took it over some years ago, but he has completely restored its reputation. The 2021 GG is mineral and citric in the nose nose, perfumed, floral, and complex. The mouth is silky smooth, has good density, length, yellow peach fruit, some citric elements, and is very elegant, complex. Raised in large oak. Spontaneous fermentation. 94/A
2021 (Hochheim) Hölle Kantelborn Riesling GG
Ripe, round, yellow fruits, neither the power of Künstler’ Hölle nor the delineation of Werner’s. Needs time. 90+/B+
2021 (Wicker) Nonnberg Vier Morgen Riesling GG
Apple nose. More succulent than Victoriaberg, dense, citric, some white fruits, some steeliness. 91+/A-
KÜNSTLER
2021 (Hochheim) Kirchenstück Riesling GG
Spicy and pure with finesse of Kirchenstück, long, filigreed. 93(+)/A
2021 (Hochheim) Hölle Riesling GG
Ripe with depth in mouth, yellow plum fruit, real substance, power and depth. 93/A
Domdechant WERNER
Werner made splendid 2021s, but also impressive is that the 2022s show almost as well.
2021 (Hochheim) Hölle Im Neuenberg Riesling GG
Hölle is same area as Victoriaberg. Powerful, yellow fruits, touch of date, intense, mineral, complex, sensuous texture, good depth. 93/A
2022 (Hochheim) Hölle Im Neuenberg Riesling GG
Spicy, nutmeg nose. Medium-weight, sensuous texture, less opulent than the 2021. Excellent persistence int the mouth. (91-94)
2021 (Hochheim) Kirchenstück Im Stein Riesling GG
Lovely finesse, complex expression of yellow fruits with the finesse of Kirchenstück, some minimality here. 93/A
2022 (Hochheim) Kirchenstück Im Stein Riesling GG
Nutmeg nose. Yellow fruits, touch of nutmeg on the palate, more finesse, less power than the 2021, not as much structure, either, although it is not lacking. Not yet in bottle; tasted from a sample. (91-94)
2022 (Hochheim) Dompräsenz Riesling GG
Pain d’épices/gingerbread spice innées. Clear, round, smooth, yellow fruits, glossy texture, lacks just a touch of tightness in structure compared to the Kirchenstück im Stein. Not yet in bottle; tasted from a sample. (90-93)