2022, 2021, and 2020 Current Release Riesling from Prinz Salm (Nahe and Rheinhessen)
Berg, Bingen, Felseneck, Johannisberg, Kirchberg, Ritterhöhle, Scharlachberg, Steinrossel,
The Nahe and Rheinhessen have their justly-established stars such as Dönnhoff and Schäfer-Fröhlich, but behind them a number of other estates produce outstanding wine that is worthy of attention. One of them is Prinz Salm, the holdings of which span both regions. The wines have been good as long as I’ve known them (for more than 20 years), but recently under a new generation they seem to be moving to an even better level.
2021 Bingen Riesling trocken Erste Lage
This is a different bottling of 2021 Bingen Erste Lage trocken from that which I previously have reviewed. The wine is concentrated and powerful in a medium-full body with incipient white peach fruit and excellent acidity playing against the dry extract. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 16 22. 91(+)/A
-
2021 Dalberger Ritterhölle Riesling trocken Erste Lage
The 2021 Dalberger Ritterhölle trocken takes some time to open, but then shows attractive incipient apricot aromas followed in the mouth by good supporting acidity, incipient peach and nectarine fruit, and overall raciness. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 26 22. 92/A
2021 Sommerlocher Steinrossel Riesling trocken Erste Lage
Salm’s 2021 Sommerlocher Steinrossel trocken is rounder than the Dalberger Ritterhölle with citric fruit that is less open at the moment. Cork closure. 12.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 27 22. 90/B+
2021 (Binger) Kirchberg Riesling GG
Clarity and minerality with strong underlying acidity and stony aspects to both the nose and mouth. This wine needs a few years’ cellaring but has very good potential. Cork closure. 11.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 14 22. 92/A
2021 (Binger) Scharlachberg Riesling GG
This is an elegant wine, relatively light in weight but with great clarity and purity of definition to the incipient apricot fruit. There’s also good penetration and overall calm to the wine. Cork closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 15 22. 93/A
2021 (Roxheim) Felseneck Riesling GG
Crisp, light pure, mineral, long, good depth. Cork closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr. 13 22 93/A
2021 (Wallhausen) Johannisberg Riesling GG
Beautiful floral, perfumed nose. Good acidity, crisp, pure, focused lime fruit. Cork closure. 12.0% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 12 22. 93/A
2022 Two Princes Riesling
This off-dry (about like Kabinett sweetness was years ago) Riesling is light, refreshing, and lively with good acidity, incipient nectarine fruit, and minerality. Don’t let the relatively moderate price put you off. Screw cap closure. 11% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 10 23. 90/A
2022 Dalberger Ritterhölle Riesling Kabinett
The 2022 Dallberger Ritterhölle Kabinett is drinking very well now and should last well for a decade at least. The nose features citric and iron notes. The mouth is light in weight with citric and apricot fruit and just a bit of sweetness supported by a fine acidity. Cork closure. 7.5% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 02 23. 92/A
2021 (Wallhäuser) Felseneck Riesling Kabinett
The 2021 Felseneck Kabinett contrasts notably with its 2022 counterpart below. Typical of the differences between the two vintages, this is a rounder, more powerful wine with perhaps a touch more sweetness, but more in reserve at the moment, although there is citric minerality. Give this wine 2-3 years more in the cellar. Screw cap closure. 9% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr: 23 22. 91/A
2022 (Wallhäuser) Felseneck Riesling Kabinett
2022 gives a light, elegant Felseneck Kabinett that has good acidity and just bare sweetness showing, along with excellent clarity verging on crystallinity, and attractive minerality. This is excellent wine for aperitifs, drinking well already. Screw cap closure. 8% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 07 23. 91+/A
2020 Roxheimer Berg Riesling Spätlese
This wine has slightly underripe white nectarine aromas and flavors in a medium-light weight body. The acidity is not particularly powerful in this wine, but it is enough to balance the light sweetness, making for a wine that drinks very well already. Cork closure. 8% stated alcohol. Last digits of A.P. Nr.: 05 21. 92/A