2021 and 2019 Baden Spätburgunder Part II -- Alte Burg, Basseige Steinreise, Bienenberg, Eichberg, Enselberg, Feuerberg Kesselberg, Henkenberg, Kirchberg, Kirchgasse, Schlossberg, Sommerhalde
From Bercher, Huber, Keller, Salwey, Stigler, Wöhrle
Even years after Bernhard Huber’s untimely death, his son and wife continue to prove this to be, in my opinion, Germany’s finest Pinot Noir estate. Franz Keller has offerings of interest here, too.
BERCHER
2021 (Burkheim) Feuerberg Kesselberg Spätburgunder GG
Strawberry nose. Strawberry mouth,, medium weight, some density, but moderate acidity, lacks a little freshness. 87/C
Bernhard HUBER
Very good results, as always, from a challenging year.
2021 (Hecklingen) Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG
Lacy, pure, dark fruits, medium-weight, cashmere texture. 92/A
2021 (Malterdingen) Bienenberg Spätburgunder GG
Velvet texture, dark fruits, hints of red, too. 91/A-
2021 (Bombach) Sommerhalde Spätburgunder GG
Perfumed, floral nose with dark fruit. dark fruits in mouth, very tender, long, complete — think Chambolle-Musigny. 92/A
2021 (Köndringen) Alte Burg Spätburgunder GG
Round, dark fruits, tender, with good weight. A complete wine. 91/A-
Franz KELLER
2021 (Oberrotweil) Eichberg Spätburgunder GG
Floral with some oak notes. Richness in a medium-weight body, red fruits, enough acidity, fine tannins. 90/B+
2021 (Oberrotweil) Kirchberg Spätburgunder GG
Slightly spicy red fruits in nose with some oak. Layered red fruits, ripeness, good differentiation, moderate acidity. 90/B+
2021 (Oberbergen) Basseige Steinreise Spätburgunder GG
Some oak, creamy texture, lacks energy and nervosity of a better wine. 87/C
2021 (Jachtingen) Enselberg Spätburgunder GG
Creamy texture, some red fruits, some oak, lacking precision and energy of a better wine. 87/C
SALWEY
2021 (Oberrotweil) Eichberg Spätburgunder GG
Strong oak presence, but it will wear off with several years’ aging. Ripe rich, but not overly so. Perhaps a touch of burn on the finish. But not the breadth of fruit of the Keller Eichberg. 88/B
2021 (Oberrotweil) Henkenberg Spätburgunder GG
Floral red fruits nose with some oak. Mouth is also floral red fruits, some spice, decent underlying acidity. A little heat on the finish. 89(+)/B
2021 (Oberrotweil) Kirchberg Spätburgunder GG
Slightly earthy red and dark fruits, velvet/cashmere texture, only medium length. 88/B
STIGLER
2019 (Freiburg) Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG
Strawberry jam nose and mouth, light in weight, washed out. 86/D
WÖHRLE
2021 (Lahr) Kirchgasse Spätburgunder GG
Light strawberry nose and mouth, not much depth. 86/D