2021, 2020, and 2019 Baden Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir) GG Part I -- Doktorgarten, Leopolds Buchberg, Schlossberg, Sonnenstück, Sperman, Vorder Winklerberg, Weingarten, Winklerberg
From Blankenhorn, Freiburg, Heger, Keller, Markgraf von Baden, Michel, Schlumberger-Bernhart, Seeger, Stigler
Switching to a different region, the disappointments of recent Spätburgunder continues. Stay tuned, though, there are some better wines to come.
BLANKENHORN
2020 (Schliengen) Sonnenstück Spätburgunder GG
Dark fruits, round, medium-weight, round. 87/C
Staatsweingut FREIBURG
2020 (Blankenhorsberg) Doktorgarten Spätburgunder GG
Slight band-aid (i.e., brett) in nose. Dark fruits, medium-weight, some freshness. But no precision. 86/D
Dr. HEGER
I have quite a high tolerance for brettanomyces, yet these wines challenged me greatly — going back and forth between drinkable but disappointing and not of any interest at all. Most people seem to have a lower tolerance of brett than I do and so will reject these wines outright. Heger has done better in the past, so these wines were a surprise.
2021 (Achkarren) Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG
Floral red fruits in nose and mouth, moderate acidity a touch flat. 86/D
2021 (Ihringen) Winklerberg Winkeln Spätburgunder GG
A touch of band-aid in nose (more brett). Red fruits in the mouth where the wine is standard and unexceptional. 86/D
2021 (Ihringen) Winklerberg Wanne Spätburgunder GG
Maybe a little Brett in nose. Red fruits in nose and mouth, and also a bit muddy. Medium-weight, needs a little time to integrate oak. 86/D
2021 (Ihringen) Vorder Winklerberg Spätburgunder GG
Red fruits in nose and mouth, maybe some brett, but less noticeable than in the other wines; handles oak better than previous wines. 87/C
Franz KELLE
R
2021 (Achkarren) Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG
Tobacco notes in nose and mouth. On palate, velvet, creamy texture, red fruits, a touch of mineral, good length. Medium weight. 89/B
MARKGRAF VON BADEN
2020 (Bermatingen) Leopoldsberg Buchberg Spätburgunder GG
Dark fruits that are attractive, but the mouth is watery. 86/D
MICHEL
2021 (Ihringer) Winklerberg Hinter Winkeln Spätburgunder GG
Strawberry and red currant jam nose and mouth. Medium-weight, a touch juicy, but lacks complexity. 87/C
2021 (Achkarren) Schlossberg Spätburgunder GG
Perfumed with a touch of tobacco. Medium-weight, pure, some freshness, strawberry jam. 88/B
SCHLUMBERGER-BERNHART
2020 (Laufen) Weingarten Spätburgunder GG
Dark fruits, medium-weight, a bit of nervosity, no great differentiation. 88/B
SEEGER
2021 (Leimen) Herrenberg Sperman Spätburgunder GG
Dark fruits, medium-weight, round, lacking penetration or precision. 86/D
STIGLER
2019 (Ihringer) Winklerberg Pagode Spätburgunder GG
Attractive, but porty, nose with red fruits. In mouth, red fruits, medium-light, could use a bit more precision. I have the feeling that this is high alcohol, but it doesn’t show it other than in the nose. 88(+)/B
2019 (Ihringer) Voderer Winklerberg Spätburgunder GG
Floral, tobacco nose, medium-light, elegant, red fruits with a touch of tobacco, hint of spice. 88(+)/B